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Hong Kong struggles to win back long

Along Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour on a March weekend, tourists armed with selfie sticks jostled for space as they took photos with the city’s famed skyline as a backdrop. Nearby, tour guides told the stories of Bruce Lee and Tony Leung, two local actors featured in the Avenue of Stars – Hong Kong’s answer to the Hollywood Walk of Fame.

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Tourists in Tsim Sha Tsui. File photo: Kyle Lam/HKFP.

Years ago, the chatter would likely have been a symphony of languages, from English to Korean to French and others. But on that Saturday afternoon, little else but Mandarin could be heard.

Since Hong Kong fully reopened to travellers last February after three years of strict pandemic rules, mainland Chinese visitors have largely returned to the city. Data from the Hong Kong Tourism Board shows that the number of mainland tourists in the last quarter of 2023 had recovered to around 80 per cent of the average in the five-year period between 2015 and 2019.

According to the Hong Kong Aircrew Officers Association, Cathay Pacific employed just under 4,000 pilots in 2019. Now, it has around 2,500.

See also: Furious pilots and a lack of trust – Why aircrew at Hong Kong’s Cathay Pacific are quitting what was once a dream job

Before the pandemic, Cathay Pacific flew to 119 destinations, according to its 2019 annual report. As of the end of 2023, the airline had only around 80 places on its route map.

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The drop in flight availability had driven up air fares to Hong Kong, Zeman added.

“For a UK family of four, it would cost them HK$50,000 to HK$60,000 [round-trip] to come here,” the mogul said. “So they decide go closer to home instead.”

Michael Moriarty Hong Kong Disneyland tourists visitors crowd
Hong Kong Disneyland on May 15, 2023. Photo: Kyle Lam/HKFP.

Paul Chan, the co-founder of tour group Walk in Hong Kong, said the blame could not be pinned on Cathay Pacific alone, as long-haul flights to Hong Kong across airlines had not fully recovered in general.

“Insufficient flights and expensive airfares is a problem,” Chan said, speaking in Cantonese to HKFP.

‘Political rhetoric’

Hong Kong authorities have made winning back tourists a key policy goal. During the budget speech in February, the government announced it had allocated HK$1.1 billion to promote “mega events,” host monthly pyrotechnics and drone shows, and partner with influencers to promote Hong Kong.

In its publicity efforts, the government has sought to paint a picture of a city that remains a vibrant place to travel to and conduct business in.

But tourists today are visiting a city vastly different to what it once was. Following large-scale protests in 2019, Beijing the following year imposed a national security law on Hong Kong, under which civil society groups have disbanded and scores of activists have been jailed.

The city has also revived a colonial-era sedition law, jailing dozens – including ordinary people – for allegedly endangering national security.

article 23
Hong Kong lawmakers gather for a group photo after the passing of Article 23, the city’s new security law, on March 19, 2024. Photo: Kyle Lam/HKFP.

The US, Canadian and Australian authorities are among the Western governments that have issued travel advisories for Hong Kong, warning of “broad” and “arbitrary” local laws.

Following the passage of further security legislation in March, the Australian government updated its warning. “The law includes additional national security offences. You could be detained without charge for up to 16 days and denied access to a lawyer for up to 48 hours,” the advisory reads.

Zeman said he had heard of tourists asking whether Hong Kong was “safe.”

See also: Silent night: Hong Kong tourist traps are empty, locals stay home as gov’t drive to revive evening economy begins

“The media says that China is not safe and they think Hong Kong is part of China. They don’t know what One Country, Two Systems is,” he said, referring to the city’s governing framework which is intended to give Hong Kong a certain degree of autonomy.

Talk about Hong Kong “losing its freedoms” was “just political rhetoric,” Zeman said, adding that he did not think Hong Kong’s image in the eyes of international tourists as a whole had changed. But he acknowledged that geopolitics had increasingly come into the picture, and that “some people” might believe the rhetoric.

hong kong airport tourism travel
Arrivals at the Hong Kong International Airport. Photo: Kyle Lam/HKFP.

Chan, the co-founder of Walk in Hong Kong, said politics rarely came up in conversation with tourists.

“I don’t know if they care [about Hong Kong politics], but it’s not what they care the most about,” Chan said. “They are most concerned with physical safety, if it’s comfortable, and if they can do the things they want to do.”

Demand and supply

With fewer flights coming to Hong Kong, the city has seen its status as an aviation hub suffer.

In 2019, the Hong Kong International Airport was ranked 10th on a list of the world’s airport megahubs. The ranking, by data provider Official Airline Guide, took into account destinations served by the airport and scheduled seat capacity.

Last year, the city’s airport was in 37th place, surpassed by those serving other Asian cities such as Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok and Jakarta.

Hong Kong international airport Cathay airplane
A Cathay airplane Hong Kong international airport. Photo: Kyle Lam/HKFP.

Shukor Yusof, the founder of aviation consultancy Endau Analytics, said airlines had been “hesitant in their projection” of Hong Kong after the protests in 2019 and Covid-19.

He added that business travellers were a significant customer base for flights to Hong Kong. With fewer major conventions and events, there was less interest in the city, he said.

“I think [Hong Kong] has just lost its lustre,” Yusof said, adding that even without accounting for air fares, the city was an expensive destination.

March, however, proved a strong month for Hong Kong’s “mega events” push. The city hosted ComplexCon, an American pop culture festival, while Art Basel and Art Central also returned to their pre-pandemic scales.

Still, Yusof said there was some way to go. Until there was more demand for flights to Hong Kong, airlines would likely not fully reinstate routes, Yusof said.

“Airlines will fly when there is demand,” he said. “The markets don’t lie.”

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